Frequently Asked Questions

  • When you're on one of our full programs, your service is guaranteed. That means if any issues come up between scheduled applications, we'll come back for a service call at no extra cost.

  • Weed control needs about 14 days to take full effect. If you're still seeing weeds after that, just call the office—we’ll have your lawn technician return to re-spray at no additional charge.

  • It depends on the product used and current weather conditions, but you can typically expect to see results within 7 to 14 days.

  • Grassy weeds are any weeds that resemble turfgrass and typically appear in the summer. Common examples include crabgrass, dallisgrass, and goosegrass.

  • Nutsedge is a fast-growing weed that appears during the warmer months. It grows in noticeable clumps, shoots straight up, and has narrow blades—often growing twice as fast as your regular turf grass.

  • NO.  The products we use are specifically labeled for turf areas only. However, we do offer a pre-emergent treatment for planting beds at an additional charge. This service helps eliminate approximately 80% of weed growth in those areas. If you're interested, we’d be happy to provide a quote.

  • Fungus typically develops when environmental conditions—like heat, humidity, and moisture—reach the ideal levels for disease to thrive.

  • Core aeration helps air, water, nutrients, and King Green’s products reach the root system more effectively. It also supports lawn thickening and fills in bare spots. The process removes quarter-sized plugs of soil about 2 to 3 inches deep, which helps relieve soil compaction. We recommend this service annually to promote a healthier, stronger lawn.

  • Yes—all of the products we use are EPA-approved and applied strictly according to the product label. For best results, we recommend staying off the lawn until the product has dried, which typically takes 30 minutes to an hour.

  • Each of our lawn technicians is assigned a specific route, and we do our best to keep the same technician on your property. This allows them to become familiar with your lawn. However, there may be occasional changes due to illness, vacation, or scheduling needs.

  • You can mow on your regular schedule, but we recommend waiting at least 24 hours after a treatment before mowing.

  • Mowing is one of the most important—and often overlooked—parts of lawn care. Done properly, it supports strong root growth, turf vigor, and helps control weeds and disease. While each grass type has different needs, here are some general guidelines:

    • Mow regularly. Aim to mow often enough so you're never removing more than 1/3 of the blade height at a time (See Below). For most grasses, that means mowing once a week—but during fast growth, every 5 days may be necessary.

    • Avoid scalping. Never remove more than one-third of the grass blade in a single mowing. Cutting too much at once—known as “scalping”—weakens the grass and encourages shallow root growth. If the lawn has grown too tall, lower the height gradually over multiple mowings, waiting about three days between each pass as you bring the mower down from its highest setting.

    • Use a sharp mower blade. Dull blades tear the grass instead of cutting it cleanly, giving your lawn a discolored appearance and increasing the risk of disease through ragged edges. For Bermuda, Fescue, or Bluegrass lawns, sharpening the blade twice a year—or every 10 to 15 hours of mowing—is usually sufficient. If you have Zoysia, Centipede, or St. Augustine grass, plan to sharpen your blade even more frequently for the best results.

    • Switch up your mowing pattern. Mowing in the same direction every time can cause the grass to lie flat, which takes away from its overall appearance. To prevent this, alternate your mowing pattern each week. For example, mow up and down one week, then switch to a side-to-side pattern the next. This helps keep the grass standing upright and looking its best.

    • Don’t bag the clippings. Unless the lawn is severely overgrown or you’re intentionally scalping—such as with Bermuda grass in early spring or Fescue just before fall aeration and seeding—let the clippings fall naturally. Grass clippings do not contribute to thatch and actually return valuable moisture and nutrients back to the turf.

    • Remember to mow at the correct height for your grass type. Every turf variety has an ideal height range, and cutting outside of that range can affect how well it performs. Mowing too short strips the grass of stored nutrients, weakens the root system, increases weed pressure, and can dull the lawn’s color. Mowing too high—especially with warm-season grasses—can also lead to weak rooting and excessive thatch buildup. Be sure to follow the recommended height for your specific grass type listed below.

    Suggested mowing height for some of the more popular Turf Grasses:

    • Tall Fescue 3"- 4" 

    (In warmer climates, this grass can be cut on the taller side of the range.)

    • Bermuda 1.0" - 2.5" 

    (Ideally, the grass should finish the season taller than it started.)

    • Bluegrass/Rye 1.0"-2.5"

    • Zoysia 0.5"-2.0"

    • Centipede 1.0"-2.0"

    • St. Augustine 1.5"-3.0"

  • It depends on the season, temperature, and recent rainfall. As a general rule, it’s best to water deeply but less frequently—this encourages plants to develop a stronger, deeper root system. A good guideline is to provide about 1 inch of water per week.

    Watering grass properly and consistently is one of the most important maintenance practices for keeping your lawn healthy. But doing it right doesn’t have to be expensive. Here are tips to help you achieve that lush, beautiful lawn we all want:

    • Water long and deep, but not often. The key to proper watering is applying enough water to soak the soil six to eight inches deep. We recommend watering until you've put down about one inch of water on the lawn. A rain gauge (or even a tuna can) will show how much each area receives. Depending on your irrigation system and water pressure, this could take an hour or more per area. Sunny spots will need more water than shady ones.

    • Consider the type of grass. For warm-season grasses, such as Bermuda and Zoysia, watering twice a week is usually enough. Cool-season grasses, including Fescue, will likely need additional irrigation—two to three times per week—as temperatures approach ninety degrees. This “long and deep, but not often” method encourages roots to grow deeper, making your lawn stronger and more resilient.

    • Water at the right time. Avoid watering during the heat of the day, since much of the water will evaporate before reaching the soil. For best results, water between 10 PM and 10 AM.

    • Aim for shorter sessions on slopes or compacted soil. If you’re watering turf on a hill or dealing with hard ground, break your watering into shorter cycles. For example, water for 20 minutes, let it soak in for 30 to 60 minutes, then water again for another 20 minutes to reach your total goal. This helps prevent runoff and allows water to soak deeper into the soil.


    Using Your Installed Irrigation System

    Many people don’t realize that every irrigation system—and each zone within it—is different. Large, open lawn areas watered with rotor sprinklers will need to run much longer than smaller areas covered by misting heads. The only way to know exactly how much water is being applied is to measure the output of each zone.

    Over time, use 3–5 rain gauges, tuna cans, or coffee cans placed throughout the lawn to track how much water is being delivered. Measure how long it takes each zone to apply the recommended 1 inch of water, then record the run time for each one on an index card and tape it inside your controller panel. Don’t be surprised if large areas take over an hour, while smaller zones may need only 10–15 minutes.

    Using Moveable Sprinklers

    One of the best ways to water your lawn effectively with a sprinkler is by using a shut-off timer that attaches to your hose faucet. These timers are affordable, easy to find, and allow you to start the sprinkler and walk away—it shuts off on its own. 

    To get started, use rain gauges or empty cans to determine how long it takes your sprinkler to apply 1 inch of water. Then divide your lawn into watering areas or “zones.” On Monday, place the sprinkler in zone one and, before you leave for work or when you get up, turn it on and set the timer. The next morning, move the sprinkler to zone two, and continue the process until the entire lawn is covered. 

    You don’t have to water the whole lawn in one day. If you need to double up, you can water zone one before bed and zone two in the morning. Watering at the right time—ideally in the early morning—is best for your lawn’s health and helps reduce water loss from evaporation. 

    Proper watering strengthens your turf, supports deep roots, and can even help lower your water bill. Just be sure to follow your local watering restrictions and keep an eye on your lawn—it will show you what it needs.

  • Once the product has been absorbed—usually after about 30 minutes—it becomes active. Light rain after that point is fine. However, if there’s a heavy rain, monitor the lawn. If you don’t see signs of weed curling or die-off within 10 to 14 days, give us a call. We’ll re-spray the area at no charge.

  • The numbers represent the percentage of each nutrient in the fertilizer. The first number is the percentage of nitrogen (N), the second is phosphorus (P), and the third is potassium (K).

  • Trimming or thinning your trees by about 50% around the shaded “umbrella” area is recommended. Another option is to plant shade-tolerant plants instead of grass, or to extend your bed areas into parts of the turf where grass isn’t thriving.

  • Mushrooms are mostly a nuisance and don’t cause any harm to your lawn. They appear as a result of organic material decomposing in the soil, especially during periods of heavy rain—typically in spring and fall. Unfortunately, there are no sprays or treatments that effectively remove them.

  • King GREEN does not offer mole control treatments. There are over-the-counter products that claim to eliminate moles, but results vary. If visible tunnels are present, we recommend stomping them down early in the morning—this may encourage the moles to relocate. While we can treat your lawn for grubs, this is not a guaranteed solution, as grubs are only one of many food sources moles may be seeking.